Israel: April 23

We docked in Haifa on Easter Sunday for an overnight stay.  Our Sunday tour to Jerusalem was moved to Monday for obvious reasons...it's a mob scene on Easter.  Heading out for a tour to Akko (in English, Acre.  Easier to say Akko.)  we stopped at the top of the Baha'i Temple gardens.  These gardens start at the top of Mount Carmel and drop down almost to the bottom of the hill.

The old city of Akko goes way the heck back, but the most interesting part is the "city below", an underground fortress built around 1190 by the Knights Templar.  The underground world included a headquarters for the Knights and the monastic military order called the Hospitallers, who cared for the sick in the holy land.   There are several large halls that housed the hospital, dining hall, prison, storerooms, etc.  Finally, the Templar Tunnel connects the fortress with the port and is large enough to accommodate knights on horseback.  We think, though, that the knights and the horses might have been smaller in those days.

Akko itself was a divided city with three ports, one for the Venetians, one for the Pisans, and one for the Genoans.  Of course, all sorts of others wandered through over the years including Canaanites, Romans, Crusaders, Turks, and British.

The next day we were off to Jerusalem's Old City.  We started out with a view of the Dome of the Rock and the Garden of Gethsemane from Mount Olive:

Then through town to see the Church of the Holy Sepulcher:

The Bazaar:

The Via Dolorosa, Station 5 of the Cross:

And the Western, or Wailing, Wall.  At the wall, one is invited to approach to pray or write a wish or tribute on a piece of paper and slip it into a space in the wall.  One thing we noticed:  there are only a few men on their side of the wall, but lots of women on the lady's side.  Maybe women have more wishes than men?  You're not supposed to photograph the Wall...but we snuck a couple of snapshots.

 Overall, we'd recommend a visit to Israel.  There's so much more to see in Jerusalem, more to do in Akko, and Haifa is a pretty nice place.  Onward to Cyprus!

Egypt: April 23

OK, we admit that at this point we were so far behind on this blog that we thought we were first.  As this was written, we were actually at anchor in Zakynthos, Greece.

Docked in Safaga, Egypt, we had a 3 1/2 hour drive to Luxor City.  Of course, that meant the same returning and the tour was a total of over 12 hours.  The drive itself was educational as the landscape changed from grubby port town to two-lane road through the rubbly foothills to a "highway" of a sort through the desert and into the plains along the Nile River.  Along the road, there are numerous checkpoints and each one has a watchtower with an armed guard and a number of military men around.  The last part of the journey went along a canal that feeds the agricultural villages.  At each and every intersection, there was at least one man, in native robes and presumably a member of some type of militia, toting a long gun.  To protect the village from what?  Tourists on a bus?  We think that perhaps they have not yet forgotten the invasion of the 1950's.

We'll get to the "wow" stuff below, but we'd like to point out that maybe Cairo is modern, but the rest of the country does not appear to be.  Everywhere, the buildings look as though they're either half-built or half-falling down.  You know you're in an upscale area when they've cut the rebar off of the buildings.   Mostly, it just stays there, sticking out of the sides and roof of the house.  And many people live in one-room shacks, where they sit outside because there's no air conditioning and it's 90 plus degrees all the time.  Transportation in the villages continues to be donkey or horse and if they're lucky, a cart.  Whatever they grow, which is everything from wheat to animal feed, is harvested by hand and a lot of people are seen carrying harvested goods on their backs.  The militiamen have the best job, sitting in the shade with a weapon.  Maybe that's why the job continues.

So we arrived at Luxor on the East bank of the Nile and there it was, the Luxor Temple.  In Luxor, you're not allowed to dig a post hole without a permit, because there are antiquities underneath everything.  Some time ago, while tearing down a building and starting to excavate, they found a sphinx.  And that sphinx was located right where the Avenue of Sphinxes that supposedly led to the Temple was supposed to be.  The result?  Keep tearing down buildings and digging up sphinxes!

At the Luxor Temple:

Even the colors are preserved in some areas.

And here's Mr. and Mrs. Tut:

After lunch, we crossed to the West bank to visit the Valley of the Kings.  We visited three tombs and it's unbelievable how well the artwork on the walls has been preserved.  Most of the writing is the Book of the Dead, and the rest depicts Pharoah's life.  If one could read those walls, it'd take years.  We passed on paying extra to see Tut's tomb.  Obviously, all the good stuff isn't there, so what the heck.  Photography is strictly forbidden so sorry, no photos.  Look it up online.  One other thing:  close to the Valley of the Kings there are hundreds of tombs of Nobles, artists, and workmen which are currently being excavated.  The entire area is literally covered with burial places.

We stopped at the Hatshepsut Temple for a quick photo.  This, by the way, is not a tomb but a funeral temple.  She's buried in the Valley.

One final note on Luxor.  Our guide, Magdi, was a middle-aged gentleman who holds a Doctorate in Egyptology.  And he works as a tour guide.

Leaving Safaga, we headed for the anchor point to join the many ships waiting for the northbound convoy through the Suez Canal.  We started into the canal at about 5:00 a.m. and it takes about 12 hours (and two pilots) to pass through.  The Suez was built by the same Frenchman, de Lessops, who was the spearhead for the Panama Canal, but the Suez was a lot easier.  It's just a long ditch.  There isn't a lot to see along the canal.  Just the occasional village, ferries, and watchtowers with armed guards.

And one bridge.

Next stop, Israel.

Petra: April 11

The ship docked at Aqaba, Jordan and almost everyone, most of the crew included, boarded buses bound for Wadi Rum where Lawrence of Arabia and one of the Indiana Jones movies were filmed or the ancient city of Petra.  The scenery was not what we expected along the way.  This part of Jordan is mountainous but it's really a moonscape.  Some hills look like lava flows, some looked as though they were shoved up by earthquakes, and some look like giant piles of rubble.  The rubble dominates as most of the terrain is covered in rocks from stone-sized to enormous boulders.

Along the way, the Bedouin people (many of whom are still nomads, living in elaborate tents woven from goat hair) tend their livestock.  Dotted around the landscape, we would see an individual in flowing robes, herding their flock of goats, assisted by either a couple of donkeys, maybe a horse, or perhaps a couple of camels.

Petra itself is more than two thousand years old and was the capital of the Nabataean Empire from the first century BC.  Later, it was occupied by Romans and Byzantines, but was abandoned after an earthquake in 363 AD.  It lay gathering sand until 1812, when a Swiss explorer set out to rediscover it.

For now, we are going to post just a few example photos.  We'll come back when we get home and edit in some more or create another entry.  So here we go:

First, one passes through the Bab Al Siq, or Gateway to the Siq.  This area leads to the gorge that is the approach to the main Petra area.  There are several Tombs, including the Obelisk Tomb from the first century AD.

Next, the Siq itself.  It's a narrow gorge just over one kilometer long and it reveals the vivid colors of the rocks.  It also holds many relics from Petra's past, including a paved road.

The Siq opens up onto the amazing Treasury, which is almost 40 meters high.  It's believed to have been carved into the rock from the top down and is thought to be the mausoleum of the Nabataean King Aretas IV, who died around 40 AD.

Around the corner from the Treasury is the Street of Facades.  It's a row of monumental tombs carved into the cliff face.

Farther on, there is a Roman-type amphitheater, and finally, high up on the cliff, the Royal Tombs. They are four adjoining facades that have been used for many purposes, including a church and a ceremonial hall.

OK, so that's the quick view.  As mentioned above, more pictures from this incredible site to come when we get home.

Arabian Peninsula: April 9

First to Dubai, United Arab Emirates.  As we sailed in, we were hoping to see that famous Dubai skyline, topped by the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world.  What we actually saw was a hazy skyline, but the Burj definitely stood out.  They say that the top of the Burj tower is not entirely complete because if someplace builds a taller tower, they'll go up and add another meter or so to stay ahead of the competition.

We spent the day on board, and in the evening we were treated to a barbeque out in the dunes.  We were looking for one of those beautiful desert sunsets but all we got was the sun sinking slowly into the haze.  We had a wonderful buffet and the entertainment included fire eating, belly dancing (so much for Muslim modest dress), and more.

And then there were the camel rides...

Returning to the ship at night, again we were hoping for a very brightly lit skyline, but, nope.  Even the Burj isn't lit up very well.  Miami's much better.  OK, onward to Abu Dhabi.

Abu Dhabi's a lot like Dubai, only bigger and hazier.  The big draw for tourists is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, opened about eight years ago and almost the only mosque that allows visitors.  To get in, one must first pass "security", that is, a check to ensure that everyone is obeying the dress code.  No shorts or tank tops for men.  Ankles and arms covered for women, and hair under a scarf.  Not a hat, no, that won't do.  It has to be a scarf.  Pati donned the "hijab" over the hat and plowed ahead.

This is really a show place.  The carpet in the main room is silk, hand woven by over 1,000 women.  It covers a space big enough to fit 10,000 men, is only in three parts, and weighs 40 tons.  There are a number of absolutely huge chandeliers made from Murano glass and Swarovski crystal, and the overall design is that of a garden.  Heaven is supposed to be a garden.  Apparently, the garden would belong to a very wealthy individual.

We also cruised around town for other views that included the high-rent district, the Emirates Palace Hotel, and the Presidential Palace.  There's a lot of money in the Emirates, that's for sure.  Abu Dhabi is home to the Yas Marina race circuit and Ferrari World.  We were surprised that none of the tours went there!  We returned to the ship, hoping again for a good sunset.  The sun sank slowly into the haze.

And then the fun began.  A day at sea aimed us for Salalah, Oman.  During our sea day, we were introduced to the procedures for sailing near the pirate coast off northern Africa.  First, we stopped out in the ocean, were met by a small boat, and brought aboard several large black boxes.  Some guessed that they contained champagne, some guessed cigars, others thought it was fresh fish, but most guessed weapons.  Next came the drill..."Code Orange Papa!  Safe Haven!"  Everyone close the curtains, get out of the rooms, away from the windows, and into the corridors.  We're going to maneuver!  Everyone lie down on the floor!  No, don't do it now! We're just telling you!

Outside on deck, most of the lights were off at night, and curtains closed all around the ship.  No lights on in the suites with the curtains open.  The fire hoses were rigged up and ready to go, and scarecrow-like dummies stood the watch on deck six, 24/7.  The security people were actually pretty busy keeping a real 24/7 watch.  It was formal night.  Gordon's tuxedo included an appropriate bow tie decorated with Jolly Rogers.  And the sun sank slowly into the haze.

Reaching Salalah, we had had enough of oppressive heat and humidity, sand, camels, and mosques, so we stayed aboard for the day.  And the sun sank slowly into the haze.  Next came four days at sea, headed for the Red Sea and Jordan.  On the third day, after a champagne and caviar breakfast, we were met by a well-used naval patrol boat and relieved of the mysterious black boxes via two dudes in a Zodiak.  Guess what the sun did.  Next stop was Aqaba, Jordan unless we wind up in Ethiopa with Starvin' Marvin.

 

India, Part 2, Goa and Mumbai: April 1

We docked at Mormugao, about 30 minutes from Goa.  Taking a break from temples, this time we visited sites with a European influence, the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral, both Portuguese and directly across the street from each other.  Huge churches with plenty of room for an overflow crowd.  The artisans, new to the religion, didn't know what cherubim and saints looked like, so they all look a little bit Hindu...

We visited the ancestral home of the Otto de Oliveira Fernandes family.  It's a beautiful old Portuguese home.  The family still lives there, but it's used mostly for events.  They have a huge patio lined with tropical plants, a bar, and the band plays from the covered porch that surrounds the home.  Inside, antique furnishings and mementos from many countries.  Outside, some crops growing and a farmyard complete with dogs, chickens, geese, ducks, and even turkeys.  It reminded us of our time in Porto, where our apartment overlooked a similar family farm.  And Portuguese snacks!  Dois Rissois de Camarao!

We made a quick stop at the flower and fruit market in Panjim.  Bad thing was that one had to pass through the fish market to get to the fruit.  Phew!  On the way back to the ship, we learned that there are two measures of time in India because of the traffic.  First, there's GMT:  Goa Maybe Time.  Then, there's IST:  India Stretch Time.

Finally, Mumbai.  It never dawned on us that "Bombay" was a Portuguese name:  good bay.  The drive from the pier to the Gateway of India Jetty was enough to remove any idea of walking around in Mumbai from our pea brains.  Wall to wall traffic, everyone on the horn, people everywhere, and no shopping nearby to speak of.  It was obvious that taking a cab wouldn't improve anything.  You'd spend the day in the cab.  There are so many motor vehicles because there are so many people...two million more people in Mumbai than in all of Canada, according to the Cruise Consultant.

Arriving at the Gateway of India (built in 1911 to welcome King George V and Queen Mary), we had a pleasant surprise.  A very popular crew member named Devendra had left us in Bali for his vacation.  He said he'd see us in Mumbai and he wasn't kidding.  When we arrived at the Gateway, there was Devendra.  Some people who didn't get to the Gateway were disappointed to have missed him. He's that well known and loved.  Says something for Regent and their people.

Anyway, from there we took a one hour ride on a local ferry.  The ferry looked homemade to us.  Destination was Elephanta Island.  There are no elephants there, but when the Portuguese arrived and saw the island, there was a huge stone statue of one, hence the name.  The statue has since been removed to a museum.  What is on the island is a cave-like complex from the 5th through 7th centuries, hand carved into the rock using only hammers and chisels.  The main cave honors the God Shiva and he's depicted in many forms.  Really amazing stone work.

Sadly, it has a lot of damage caused by the Portuguese.  They weren't quite sure what they were seeing and in some cases, didn't like it, so they smashed parts.  They preserved the centerpiece, Shiva depicted with three faces:  the creator, the preserver, and the destroyer.  Apparently they thought they saw the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit, so they left it alone.

Oh, did we mention that the island has a usual assortment of cattle, goats, dogs...and monkeys?  All roaming amongst the tourists and vendors.

Don't let that trash can fool you.  There's nothing in it.  Maybe here's why:

We spent the night on the dock, wondering at the assortment of cargo ships, coal carriers, car carriers, oil rig tenders, ferries, and naval vessels in the bay.

OK, grab your hijab, we were off for the United Arab Emirates.

India Part 1, Cochin and Mangalore: April 1

First stop in India, Cochin, home of the picturesque Chinese fishing nets along the side of the river.

We took a highlights tour and visited two museums, the Dutch Palace and the Indo-Portuguese.  The amount of Dutch and Portuguese influence in India is amazing, especially since most of us think of only the British dominance of the country.  But in Cochin there's a Dutch style house next to a Portuguese style with a British one across the street.  It's really a mix.

The busy shopping streets are absolutely crazy.  On foot, we thought that any minute someone was going to run up our back with a scooter.  In India, the three G's are necessary to drive:  good hands, good brakes, and good luck.  It seems that what they do in cars, buses, or scooters is lay on the horn and step on the gas.  We took our chances on a stroll down Jew Street to the spice shop and the old Pardesi Synogogue.  There are actually very few Jewish people in India anymore, we're told.

Finally, a stop at the fish market adjacent to the Chinese fishing nets.

A word about the weather.  They have a dry season in what's our winter and then the monsoon season the rest of the time.  Dry season or not, the temperature and humidity both run in the 80's to 90's.  Add the pollution and you get good old LA style smog.  Hot tourists with burning eyes wanted to get back to boozin' and cruisin'.

On to Mangalore.  Here we went temple hopping in Karkala.  First, there's Lord Gomateshwara, 212 steps up the hill and towering over the area.  He's backed up by the 24 prophets and a local priest.

Next, a stop at Soan's farm, where they're growing one of just about everything.  One thing they do very well is pineapple juice.  Delicious.  Just needed rum.  Then on to the Thousand Pillar Moodbidri Temple.

The drive back to the ship took about an hour, and it was the most interesting one yet.  Mostly in narrow back roads, there were a lot of pauses to narrowly miss opposite direction trucks and busses, but as we went we saw roaming cattle, goats, and coconut retrievers.  Did they belong to someone or are they just wandering, we wondered?  Nice houses, shacks, hovels, cell phone ads, dust.  And trash.  Everywhere.  It seems that historically, people ate off banana leaves with their fingers.  When finished, one threw the banana leaf and leftovers out the door and the cattle ate them.  No trash issue until plastic was introduced.  Situation changed but people still throw the leftovers out the door.  There are no trash cans because who'd pick them up?  The country is trying to get people to keep their cities and villages clean but it's an uphill battle with no trash removal services in most areas.

Sri Lanka: March 31

Colombo, Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) was our introduction to what to expect in India.  Sri Lanka is an island just off the southeast coast of India and the city is cultural, industrial, and polluted.  And, mama mia, is that place busy.  Our tour, which was supposed to be a little over five hours, took us through the city traffic jams (introduction to driving with one's horn) to the Ingiriya Tea Plantation.  We arrived at the plantation over an hour late, so it was easy to see that dinner plans were going to be shot.

On the hill in the clear air, the tea plantation grows Ceylon Tea in vast fields.  Tea is harvested by hand, and only the very top of the plant is taken.  The pickers take the top two leaves and the bud, which is the newest and smallest leaf.  The prize bud is an unopened leaf.

After harvesting, the tea leaves are withered for about 36 hours, then dried and sorted for size, color, etc.  The prized buds mentioned above are processed by hand, but the rest of it goes through machinery that's been in use since the 1930's.  It's bagged up and wholesaled to various packagers who blend it or not as they will.

After checking out the factory, we were welcomed with tea and cake on the lawn at the manager's house.  Neat architecture and beautiful garden.

The drive back to the pier went a little faster, and we witnessed early evening life in the area as we went.  People gathered on the street corner waiting for Monks to arrive, sit in special white chairs, and bless whatever's going on:  wedding, birthday, pub crawl, who knows?  Also, for everyone's listening enjoyment, sermons are blasted over loudspeakers so one can get a little religion on the way home.  We arrived back at the ship well after dark and the General Manager met everyone at the door to encourage us to "come as we were" to a buffet on deck. We expect that he was trying to save room service from certain disaster.

Onward to Incredible India!